The Runway Rundown: How Fendi, Marni And Etro Kickstarted Milan Fashion Week

Jones infused the brand’s couture DNA into the world of its ready-to-wear, with carefully crafted embellishments on delicate silk and organza pieces. The collection as a whole was a meeting of the modern and the antique: Art Deco on flapper dresses paired with Red Wing boots, shown alongside croc-effect leather dresses and knitted hot pants styled under relaxed overcoats.

Fendi SS25

Fendi SS25

At Marni, Francesco Risso, too, wanted to emphasise the craft and the spirit of design. ‘Beauty is a white rabbit scampering across your yard. You chase it. Though you fall short in capturing it, in the mad rush you find yourself somewhere wondrous,’ read the show notes. It was an apt description: the show was like falling down the rabbit hole into an eccentric dream world — let’s call it Risso’s wonderland.

The surrealist collection was as impactful as it was characterful; cotton, leather and suede were Risso’s fabrics of choice, crafted into full-skirted dresses and exaggerated tailoring and topped off with bright rose motifs, giant-brimmed hats, and larger-than-life scarves made from fabric scraps.

Marni SS25

Marni SS25

On Wednesday, German label Boss drew on its tailoring roots to craft a collection that showcased relaxed suiting to designed to wear everywhere but the workplace. The show, titled ‘Out of Office’, leveraged lighter fabrics and slouchier silouettes, with blazers styled over hoodies and unbuttoned shirts. Marco Falcioni, senior vice president of creative direction, described it as ‘a softer approach’ compared to seasons past, ‘where the silhouette is dictated by the wearer’s body, leaving more room for freedom and expression of individuality.’

Boss SS25

Boss SS25

Wednesday’s lineup closed out with Etro, which fused Bohemian vibrancy with Mediterranean spirit. The cheerful collection saw fishnet tops paired with flirty paisley printed silk skirts; beaded denim thrown over flowing chiffon pieces; and, in a tribute to Italian craftsmanship, dresses with intricate sequin embellishments and sensual yet light-hearted sheer detailing.

Craft may be a serious business, but in a fashion context, the result is often a whole lot of fun.

Etro SS25

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